Bittersweet (Agridulce)

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It seemed impossible when we set out on January 23, that we would make it no further south than Esquel, a town only 163 kilometers away if you travelled by Ruta 40. But with the days becoming shorter as Patagonia … Read More

On Argentinean Time

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That’s me on Judy doing my Butch Cassidy impression. Sharing lamb (capon) with a campesino en route to Esquel.He has spent four months on his own in that cabinfor the last 32 summers looking after his sheep, cows, horses and … Read More

As You Might Expect?

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Before I started this excursion, I wasn’t exactly sure how we were going to make this trip work. How, I wondered, do you ride into a place where you have never been before with four or five horses and manage … Read More

Tigre Glacier Beckons

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I once cycled in Tuscany, Italy. Days in advance of our arrival in the fortified city of Volterra, people on the roadside and in the towns along the way would ask us, “Are you climbing the Volterra hill?” By the … Read More

Travelling Without a Guidebook

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It’s often occurred to me that an interesting premise for a travel article would be to visit a place and explore it without the help of a Lonely Planet Guide or a Fordors. Don’t get me wrong; these are fabulously … Read More

Making Progress

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We’ve been out on the trail for over two weeks and we are finally very near, if not exactly in, Cholila. As we expected, we’ve developed a rhythm. We ride for two or three days. They are usually long and … Read More

Manuel and Much-Needed Medicine

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After the big crash (See January 31 post.), we miraculously rode on, apparently no worse for the wear. But we decided to take the shorter, though hotter and less picturesque, route into Norquinco. Basically, we rode alongside a wide and … Read More

Pilcheras and Painful Injuries

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 Alex on the left with Judy in tow.Roberto on the left on the road to El Maiten.  Paul Theroux once said, “Travelling is only romantic in retrospect.” I, on the other hand, was beginning to wonder if travelling … Read More

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